Ketchikan

After 2 somewhat isolated ports of call, I wasn’t sure how to feel about one that’s much more commercialized and sometimes filled to capacity with cruisers on shore. We were lucky. There were only 4 ships, including ours, visiting that day, and they were somewhat staggered. We were never overwhelmed with crowds. The ships dock right in town, so it’s a very accessible and easy-to-walk port town.

Hannah and I started our morning by heading out on foot away from the main town area. We took a left turn and followed our GPS to the University of Alaska’s campus bookstore, where there’s a trailhead for the well-known Rainbird Trail. We were actually approaching it from the opposite side that most people do. That portion is still pretty rugged and undeveloped, making it a little tricky at times to find the path. But we managed and loved the wildness of the Tongass rainforest in this section. As we progressed to the other half of the trail, it became much more maintained, with rocks and steps and a well-developed path. There were also more people, though we only passed fewer than a dozen in all, and 3 were locals.  The trail (when hiked in this direction) ends near the gorgeous library, a popular sanctuary for cruisers seeking good wi-fi for a few hours. From there, it’s just about half a mile into town, where we did the self-guided tour of the famous sites like the fish ladder, “married man’s trail,” Creek street, etc.

Starving after the hike and walk, we found an old restaurant called the New York Café for lunch. Originally established in 1903 by a Japanese-American couple as a café on Front Street, the café was moved south of Creek Street during the Roaring 20’s. The Shimizu family was no longer welcome in the northern side of town, which was now officially segregated, so they opened the New York Hotel and Café in 1925 with 18 tiny rooms and only 1 shared bath. During WWII, they were struck with another blow when the family was moved to an internment camp for Japanese-Americans. However, their neighbors continued to run the hotel, collecting the profits, and returned everything to the family upon their return. Although no longer run by the same family, we kind of wanted to eat there just for the history. Lunch was good and filling with common options for the area (fish and chips, burger and fries, salmon, and some salads and vegan meals).

There is no lack of shopping available in Ketchikan. Some of the prices are cheaper than we saw elsewhere and there seemed to be a few unique shops. We’re not shoppers, so we mostly just looked in passing.

Even with the tourist element of Ketchikan, it’s hard not to be charmed by Creek Street. It’s a quaint area and I think it deserves its reputation as a great place to visit. We were happy we weren’t there during a day filled with ships. I imagine it could get overwhelming at peak capacity, but even then, I’d want to at least walk through the town once. Then I’d get out to the trails or on an excursion!  Next time we’re there (thinking positively that there will be a next time!), Hannah and I hope to hike up the White Deer Trail. Friends on our ship who have done that one said it takes about 5 hours roundtrip and goes up to the top of the mountain with great views.

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